Description: THE WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR 2016 and WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. BARBARIAN DAYS is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. BARBARIAN DAYS is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
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Location: Gloucester
End Time: 2025-01-12T16:41:12.000Z
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EAN: 9781472151414
UPC: 9781472151414
ISBN: 9781472151414
MPN: N/A
Format: Paperback, 512 pages
Author: William Finnegan
Book Title: Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
Item Height: 3.4 cm
Item Length: 19.5 cm
Item Weight: 0.37 kg
Item Width: 13 cm
Language: Eng
Publisher: Corsair